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Heck the eyetoy has been around since the ps2, shouldn't they ahve considered this? My point is in combination with a 6foot cord, you would think (based on how they market the product) that for a permanent setup one would have the cord go behind their entertainment center (like almost any other piece of electronics in your setup) to either on top of your tv or underneath. The slim could have been designed with a port in the back with the Move/Eyetoy in mind. The slim has been in development for a few years. Once you are happy that the card disc is in place, secure with a couple of strips of card stuck to the inside edge of the tube.Click to expand.Um.Move has been in development for a few years.
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If the card feels loose you may want to add another strip of trimmed card. Pull the cable through until the web cam sits in the tube and the card disc rests flat against the cardboard ledge on the inside of the tube. Take the USB cable and feed it through the top of the twist pack. Hold until everything is set, then pop the LED through the 5mm hole in the disc. Replace the cap on the end of the barrel, and hold it flat to the card and secure with hot glue. Remove the cap from the lens barrel (but keep the barrel attached to the circuit board so that it doesn't fall apart) and carefully insert it through the center of the disc (if the card has only one white side make sure this is facing away from the circuit board). You want this to be tight fit so try not to make it too large, about 12-13mm. Now cut a hole in the centre of the disc just large enough for the widest end of the lens barrel (the 'capped' end) to pass through. Take one of your card discs and mark a point about 15mm from the centre of the disc then use a hole punch to create a small hole about 5mm in diameter. Turn on your hot glue gun so that it has time to warm. If you've configured the lenses correctly you should be able to see the red, green and blue components of individual pixels (see image below). Test your camera by plugging it in to your computer and using it to view the pixels on your screen or monitor (you’ll need to hold the end of the barrel a few millimeters away from the surface if the screen). Screw the barrel back on to the circuit board. Now join the two halves and replace the cap you removed earlier (be patient with this and aim to keep the halves of the barrel aligned as you tighten the cap). Discard the front lens (the one directly behind the cap) and reassemble the parts in the barrel taking care to not to get fingerprints on the lenses and ensuring that the 'curviest' side of each lens faces forwards (towards the cap). You should see that one side appears more curved, or has a bigger 'bump', than the other, try to keep this bump to the front. Pay particular attention to the curve of the lenses. Take a close look at the way the lenses are arranged (it may help to take a photograph so that you have a record of the order they are in).
PS3 EYE CAM USB LENGTH PC
If you have a PC try this this tutorial Ĭarefully remove all the parts in the barrel and lay them out in order.
PS3 EYE CAM USB LENGTH DRIVERS
If you use an Apple Mac, try the MacCam webcam drivers and CamSpinner to capture images and record video. If it doesn't, there are a number of plug-ins and web-cam applications that can rectify this. P.p.s Your computer may not automatically recognise the EyeToy camera used in this project (it's a playstation 2 camera model number SCEH-0004). I'm interested in finding ways to replace the twist pack with more readily available parts, so any suggestions welcomed. I'm happy to post these out, at cost, on a first come first served basis to anyone interested. I sourced my from Rose Plastics in the UK but had to purchase a minimum order of 100, which works if your planning to run workshops not so much if you're building a one off. I know that the twist pack container might not be the easiest thing to get hold of, but its neat and works really well. So your comments and feedback are most welcome. I'm due to run workshops demonstrating this project at the Brighton Mini Maker Faire in September 2013 so I'm hoping this instructable will help me stress test the approach ahead of then. The project is also designed to be cheap i.e. I've also tried to design a project that is easily repeatable with young makers, and minimises the use of very sharp, very hot and very technical apparatus in construction. One of my primary objectives was to devise a way of focusing the camera that was simple, robust and didn't rely on complex assembly and machine tools.
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Inspired by various online, DIY USB microscope projects and this project on in particular , I decided to have a go with creating my own USB microscope with different cameras and bits and pieces I had lying around.